Lucca: Off With a Running Start
Helen Krogh

I don't usually like to go to a restaurant that's only been open a few days. It takes a little time in most cases to work the kinks out. But Lucca, the new Mediterranean restaurant at 1656 J St, appears to have hit the ground running.

I've made two visits to Lucca during it's first two weeks of operation, and there are few – very few – kinks. On both occasions I was really impressed with the high caliber of training exhibited by all the staff here. There are several good restaurants in this area that have snooty, young, anorexic hostesses who seem to be doing you a favor at finding you a table. But at Lucca, all the staff, from hostesses and waiters to bus boys and the valet parking guys, are cheerful, charming and anxious to have all patrons enjoy the experience of being at this upbeat new lunch and dinner spot.

I like the brick walls and the mostly modern decor here. I adore the cobalt blue water goblets, and I'd like to know where to go to buy the oversized white soup plates that are standard here for most entrees. There's a front dining room with a friendly bar and a back dining room that's quieter. Both were doing steady business on my two visits.

I don't know how to describe the cuisine at Lucca. Yes, some of it is Italian, some of it is French, some is pure Pacific Northwest and then there's the Mid Eastern Myzithra flatbread (served with creamy lentils, garlic and green olive pesto and Lucca house-cured olives, a $5.95 appetizer that is tasty and unusual).

On one visit, I has a generous portion of braised short ribs with peas, carrots and mashed potatoes ($10.95). My companion ordered the linguine puttanesca, an authentic Italian pasta dish with garlic, capers and kalamata olives in a spicy tomato sauce topped with pangriata (toasted bread crumbs). This dish is $8.9 and both o us thought it was delicious but a rather puny portion – or maybe the pasta was just lost in that oversized soup plate.

For lunch here, I'd recommend the seared steak salad with gorgonzola, romaine, cherry tomatoes and kalamata olives ($10.95) or the $8.95 Luca burger with a half pound of grass-fed beef with traditional accompaniments. The house salad is chopped romaine with lemon/oregano vinaigrette and feta cheese. It's $4.95 and I found it easier to eat than mot romaine salads, but my lunch companion disagreed – she likes the big leaves that you have to wrestle with to get them from fork to mouth.

I am intrigued by the idea of squash tortellini with sage, chili flakes, parmesan and walnuts ($8.95) and the chicken saltimbocca with pancetta, fontina and sage served with mashed potatoes ($11.95) and plan to return soon to check these out.

Most desserts at Lucca are $5.95, although you can order vanilla bean gelato with chocolate or fresh berry sauce and whipped cream for $4.95. Don't count the calories if you order the “Death by Chocolate,” a molten chocolate cake with chunks of chocolate, white chocolate and a raspberry/rum chocolate sauce. An invitation to an overdose if I ever saw one! Other dessert offerings include a sweet cornmeal cake with a warm berry sauce and creme mariachi and giant chocolate-striped strawberries dipped in three chocolates with mocha custard and whipped cream.

I note that Lucca. as well as several other restaurants around town, has an appetizer and a dessert featuring lavender. ( I recall my son getting a salmon dish at the Firehouse.) Sorry, but I don't get it. To my old-fashioned way of thinking, lavender exists to make soap of perfume, not to eat, and I feel the same way about place that put nasturtiums or pansies on my dinner plate.
Gene Moana is the Executive Chef at Lucca; Shaun Nelson is the pastry chef. My hat is off to both, and I think Lucca will continue to get a warm welcome in the downtown area.

By the way, the valet parking costs $3, but in this neighborhood of limited, metered on-street parking, it's well worth it. To call ahead, phone Lucca at (916) 669-5300. The restaurant is open for lunch and dinner Monday through Friday, and for dinner only on Saturday and Sunday.

« back